The arrival into Pemako Punakha, a luxurious gem of a property in west-central Bhutan, was like something out of a Disney movie. After a scenic, three-hour drive from the airport through Bhutan’s imposing mountains and lush valleys, our car stopped in front of a rickety bridge hovering over the raging Mo Chhu river. There, we met our butler, a sweet young woman named Dechok who told us to disembark and cross the suspension bridge, while our suitcases were being carried behind us. After safely making it to the other side (albeit with slightly shaky legs) we hopped onto a buggy that meandered through the densely shaded banks, until the scene opened up to a breathtaking pagoda, lit up like a jewellery box in the dark. The name Pemako, inspired by the concept of beyul, means a sacred sanctuary or hidden paradise. It could not have been more aptly chosen.
While the property boasts impressive international neighbours like Aman and Six Senses, Pemako is the only Bhutanese-owned luxury hospitality group, which means those looking for a truly authentic experience even at the height of luxury will appreciate all the traditional touches poured into the design. Every corner revealed a new detail to behold, from walls lined in prayer wheels and wooden carvings to a hallway painted in five colours, symbolising the sacred colours and elements of the prayer flags. Just when our eyes settled upon the Heritage House, the glowing bar so beautiful it could be mistaken for a temple, we were whisked away to our room, one of just 21 tented villas nestled into the hillside. To call this glamping would still be doing the fully kitted room a disservice. Besides the sturdy canvas walls, one would not know this was a tent, what with the luxurious Serge Ferrari furnishings and spacious copper tub, not to mention the generous patio and heated infinity pool that looked out over the gushing river.
Calling all 2026 brides, bridesmaids and maids of honour.
Our butler gently interrupted our gawking over the enormous bed (it could comfortably fit a family of six) to inform us that it is time for dinner at the Alchemy House. We sat crossed legged under low tables in a wooden loft fashioned after a traditional home, as we were served a Bhutanese meal of a dozen hearty bowls filled with momo buckwheat dumplings, chilis covered in cheese and myriad scrumptious stews.
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The sprawling property offers three restaurants and a tree house up at the top of the mountain where one could enjoy cuisine ranging from Indian to Italian, while looking out into the green vista. Besides the generous staff who catered to our every need, we were largely alone, which made every experience even more special, be it a session of archery (Bhutan’s national sport) using bamboo bows and complete with singing and dancing with every hit on target, to a private meditation or yoga session with the resident monk. Despite the grandeur of the landscape and its impressive monuments, every experience is incredibly intimate and encourages spiritual contemplation.
Even as we visited the resplendent temples and grand fortresses of the valley, it was rare to bump into other groups thanks to Bhutan’s strict tourism rules aimed at protecting the integrity of its culture by imposing high daily tourist taxes and visa rules. “When it comes to tourism, we value quality over quantity,” is how our beloved guide Bap so wisely summarised the country’s approach. For this reason, too, there was scarcely any children around and tourists tended to be couples, older families or medium-sized tour groups, making it ideal for honeymooners who wish for wholesome, adult-friendly experiences. For my husband and I who are at an age where we prefer leisurely lunches over boozy brunches and historic towns over hangovers, this was the perfect place for us.
Over the course of three days, Bap took us on a hike through paddy fields, up to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal Chorten, a stunning, four-story hilltop temple filled with the most intricate mandalas of deities. Photos are not allowed inside temples so we, and the few other visitors, admired every detail with hushed reverence and only with our eyes (gasp). Prayer wheels often found in front of temples or dotted along the landscape are where people spread blessings as they spin the golden wheels clockwise—but not for themselves, for all other sentient beings. Buddhism teaches them that kindness towards others eventually will help bring good karma. Before I arrived in Bhutan, I was skeptical of its moniker as the “happiest country on earth” stemming from its philosophy of prioritizing its Gross National Happiness (GNH) over GDP or economic growth. And while I cannot attest to the happiness of all the people I met, they were certainly some of the most generous, and their kindness deeply moved us to reflect on our own needs, desires and responsibility to our environment.
One night as we were about to go to sleep, a furious storm rolled through the valley. Being in a canvas tent on the hillside, we felt every clap of thunder and crack of lightning as if it were above our very bed. The room shook as the tempest roared on, and while it was frightening at first, I couldn’t help but feel it was also incredibly cinematic and romantic, and it became one of the fondest memories of the trip that our husband and I now share.
Our final stop on this eye-opening sojourn was at Pemako Thimphu, Punakha’s impressive sister property in the capital that plays host to most foreign dignitaries like Prince Harry who visited the kingdom. After a night of traditional Bhutanese festival dancing and a yak butter massage (yes it’s exactly what that says), it was time to head back to reality. As my husband and I headed to Paro airport (and braced ourselves for that impressive air maneuver between the mountains), we were left feeling rejuvenated by the crisp air, and calming landscape, and felt more than a little bit closer to each other—and happier—than at the beginning of our adventure.
