If Fancì Club's designs are anything to go by, a bra is no longer just a wired contraption that lifts and supports your breasts. It’s a fashion statement in its own right. You might have noticed the humble brassiere on show at many a runway, including Simone Rocha, Prada and Versace. Having your bra straps showing was once thought to spoil a look (anti-big boob propaganda, I say), prompting the use of boob tape and strapless bras, but it seems like now it’s cool to have the entire bra on show.
One of the brands behind this fashion trend is Fancì Club, a Vietnamese label founded by Duy Tran (Trần Khánh Duy). Duy began the label in 2018 as a small upcycling project, sourcing overlooked thrifted pieces and transforming them into entirely new designs. He has always had a soft spot for the “bold, expressive aesthetics” of the ‘90s and ‘00s. “Our designs often play with structure and softness, like corsetry, sculpted silhouettes, and delicate details, creating a balance between the feeling of power and vulnerability,” Duy tells Glamour UK.
Originally called Fancy Thrift, the name was inspired by the 2014 hit Fancy – courtesy of Iggy Azalea and Charli XCX. During that era, Charli had a cult following but was nowhere near as famous as she is now. Once under-appreciated, now an It Girl. Are there some poetic parallels between her and FANCì's own trajectory, perhaps? Over time, Duy’s more experimental, thrifted approach turned into the clothing brand we know now, FANCì CLUB. The name stayed, but the short “i” and accent mark on it are a subtle way to show the Vietnamese pronunciation.
Wearing underwear as outerwear is something that was heavily explored in FANCì's S/S26 collection, shown last June. “This direction has always been part of FANCì’s visual language: using intimacy as a form of expression rather than provocation,” explains Duy. But his latest collection, titled “Renaked”, featured more of an explicit focus on underwear. Corsets were worn on their own with nothing on the bottom except tights. Sheer skirts revealed bright panties underneath. One standout piece was a lilac corset overlaid with a red lace bra, which would end up being worn by both Dua Lipa and Paloma Elsesser.
“S/S26 is a reflection on “nakedness”, not as literal nudity, but as a quiet rebellion against performance and expectation. By removing layers of pretence, we wanted to explore the power of vulnerability and the courage it takes to be fully seen,” explains Duy of the collection’s concept. “Exposed undergarments become symbolic rather than sensational; they represent honesty, closeness, and emotional openness. The body isn’t objectified; it’s acknowledged.”
Ticking all the boxes of the it-brand checklist, FANCì has appeared on HBO’s new series I Love LA alongside other brands of the moment like Dilara Findikoglu, Miu Miu and Rick Owens. Its garments have been spotted on the brightest of stars, like Hailey Bieber, FKA Twigs, Anok Yai and, the it-girl to rule them all, Bella Hadid. Bella is actually a muse for the brand, says Duy: “She is an enduring source of inspiration for us, someone who embodies the perfect tension between strength and vulnerability. We still vividly remember the first time she wore FANCì.”
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Fancì had a number of pop culture moments in 2025, including dressing Doja Cat for her Gorgeous music video, Leomie Anderson for the Fashion Awards and Doechii for her Camp Flog Gnaw performance. By our estimates, 2026 is set to be even better for Duy and Fancì. What's next? World domination? Will we all be wearing nothing but a corset and tights, or bras as the pièce de résistance of our outfits? Maybe not. But I predict we'll be seeing straps poking out of off-the-shoulder tops, bras peeking out from low-cut dresses and vibrant underwear shining through sheer layers.
