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Most of us count dry shampoo as our No.1 lifesaver beauty product, and for good reason. Overslept and no time for a hair wash? Dry shampoo. Knackered and zero energy to wash your hair, let alone style it? Dry shampoo. Running to a meeting from a sweaty morning spin class? You guessed it, it's dry shampoo every time.
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Of course, this powdery wonder product is pretty much the gold standard for refreshing oily roots between washes, but there is a right way to apply it – no one wants that dreaded white cast or a dull look from overdoing it. And it should go without saying: dry shampoo should never serve as a permanent replacement for a traditional hair wash with shampoo and water. Though it may just buy you a little more time.
Meet the experts:
- Sam McKnight MBE, session and celebrity hairdresser and founder of Hair by Sam McKnight
- Marlon Hawkins, artistic director at Brooks & Brooks
- Ryan Forsythe, Artistic Education Director at Trevor Sorbie
What is dry shampoo?
Dry shampoo is a waterless product – usually in the form of a spray or a powder – which is applied to the scalp to absorb oil and make the hair look cleaner and fresher between washes.
Most use a combination of talc, starch, clay or alcohol to achieve this effect, though many modern formulas often include extra scalp-nourishing ingredients or even tints to cater to different hair types and colours. It's worth taking a look at the ingredients label to see if anything is unsuited to you – and if you have a sensitive scalp, you may want to avoid certain alcohol-based or fragranced dry shampoos.
How does dry shampoo work?
The starchy ingredients in dry shampoos work by absorbing the oil from the scalp, almost like a sponge – each particle has a porous surface which traps the oil and makes the hair appear cleaner (a similar effect to applying a mattifying powder on top of a glossy foundation).
Of course, this isn't the same as a traditional hair wash using a liquid shampoo, which encapsulates the oil and dirt and then gets washed away with water. So basically, dry shampoo gives the appearance of cleaner, fresher hair – but it sticks around on the scalp, meaning it will build up if you use too much or repeat the process day after day.
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How to use dry shampoo
While most of us will do a quick spritz on our roots, frantically rub it in and run out the door, it actually pays to spend a little more time distributing the product throughout the hair.
- Section the hair by an inch from the nape of the neck. “Sectioning your hair whilst using dry shampoo gives you the best results, as it helps eliminate as much oil as possible,” says Marlon. “By working in inch sections, you will really guarantee a fresh result." For most people, it's useful to focus at the hairline, nape and roots at the top of the head.
- You don't need to overdo it. “Spray lightly at the roots only, about 20-30 cm away,” adds Ryan. “Less is more — you can always add more if needed.
- Wait a moment to let the dry shampoo get to work. “The key is patience – let the product do the work," says Sam. “Let it sit for a minute to absorb the oil. Don’t aggressively rub it in; that’s just rubbing the starch into your scalp and follicles.”
- “For the best results, blast your hair with a cold hairdryer to remove as much of the dry shampoo as possible,” he adds. “Use cool air rather than hot, because heat will soften the oils– which will leave your hair feeling heavy and greasy again. It’s a great trick to get the most out of dry shampoo.”
- Repeat with the next section, until you have applied where you need it (and remember less is more!
- Finish by brushing the hair to make sure everything is fully distributed and remove any excess.
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When to use dry shampoo
“Dry shampoo is a quick styling fix to give you one more day,” says Sam. “It shouldn’t be replacing washing your hair day after day. The best time to use it is actually before your hair gets very greasy.”
“On those days where you think, ‘should I wash it or not?’ – that’s the perfect time. It will instantly refresh and revive your hair so it has that clean feel. But remember: it’s not clean. It now has a styling product in it that absorbs the excess oil. If you are looking at your hair and your first thought is ‘oh my, it really needs a wash’, you’ve gone past the point of effective use. In that instance, you should be cleansing your scalp for a healthy microbiome and healthier hair. Especially if you experience a dry, itchy, flaky scalp or are trying to promote healthier hair growth.”
Can you use dry shampoo two days in a row?
You can, if really necessary, but it's worth noting that dry shampoo will only build up in the roots, unlike a traditional shampoo, so using it over and over isn't a substitute for a good hair wash. Using it multiple days in a row is a no-no.
“Dry shampoo is best used as a refresher between washes,” says Ryan. “Using it two days in a row is fine occasionally, but it shouldn’t replace regular cleansing.”
Sam is even firmer. “From a scalp post of view, I wouldn’t recommend using it two days in row. If you’re relying on it constantly, it’s probably time to wash your hair. Healthy hair always starts with a clean scalp.”
What are the best dry shampoos?
The best dry shampoos are light and fine, refreshing the hair without weighing it down. Most users look for a formula that won't leave a pesky white cast, and absorbs oil to leave the hair looking shiny and fresh.
“I prefer formulas with a fine, invisible mist and minimal residue; they absorb oils without dulling shine or feeling gritty,” says Ryan. "Most use starches (rice or corn) or clays to absorb oil. Look for lightweight starches. Avoid heavy talc, excessive fragrance, or alcohol if you have a sensitive or dry scalp."
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Is dry shampoo for all hair types?
Technically, anyone can use dry shampoo, but certain hair types may need to be more cautious when it comes to build-up. “Very dry, curly or sensitive scalps should use it sparingly, as it can cause dehydration or buildup if overused,” says Ryan.
“Anyone can use dry shampoo, it’s all about finding the right one for your hair type and texture,” adds Sam. “But I would caveat this by saying dry shampoo is essentially a product that’s made to absorb oils, which is essentially moisture. For those with dry hair or a dry scalp, I wouldn’t use this daily. A quick fix once in a while is fine, but a good cleansing regime should keep your hair nourished.”
It's also worth noting that if you've got coily or textured hair and use styling products like gels and curl creams, the dry shampoo may sit on top of them and cause a white cast.
And what does hair porosity have to do with it?
Can you use dry shampoo to add texture and volume to hair?
On some hair types, dry shampoo can add texture and volume to the hair, but as a rule it's better to use a specific styling spray to achieve these results. “Dry shampoo will naturally give the illusion of more volume to fine hair, but they don't contain ingredients such a polymers that will hold the hair in place,” says Sam. “The volume you are getting is from the loss of excess oil and also the soft texture dry shampoo leaves behind. Products are created and formulated to give you the best outcome for what you are looking for, so choose the product that’s made for your goal, rather than one that made to do something else.”
Marlon adds that he does occasionally like to use dry shampoo to add fullness to ponytails, however. “I love using a tinted dry shampoo on brunette ponytails. Sometimes our hairlines are slightly finer. I use a brunette dry shampoo to slightly fill in the fine areas, making it look denser and giving the ponytail a thick, snatched appearance," he says.
