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Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus is a five-star hotel and fine-dining destination located in the upmarket Kuruçeşme neighbourhood of the Beşiktaş district, on the European side of Istanbul's Bosphorus Strait. Here, an account of my visit.
It was friends honeymooning in the country that opened my eyes to the idea of visiting Turkey. I have to be honest, I’d never really considered a beach holiday there – nor a city break to the sparkling, transcontinental capital of Istanbul. But their sunset photographs of the majestic Bosphorus river, along with the bustling spice bazaars and imposing Blue Mosque, didn’t have to work very hard to convince me to visit.
So, off we headed in September – the best time of year to go, I’ve since decided – when the swarms of tourists have somewhat dispersed, and the scalding heat you’d expect to experience in July or August subdued. We had a booking at an Istanbul Airbnb for the first few days of our trip, largely because the Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus sits a little further North of the city centre, and we wanted more time to explore. That’s not to say you couldn’t do so with Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus as a base – you absolutely could, as the drive is a little under 20 minutes – but I had a desire to not stray very far from the spa when I did arrive at our hotel home. I'd heard special things.
I won’t go too much into our time spent exploring Istanbul’s city centre too much here – I wrote about that for Condé Nast Traveller – but what I will say to visitors who’ve never roamed Istanbul’s colourful, lively streets, is that you’re in for a total treat. The city has become one of my favourites.
While staying at the Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus, explore Cihangir, a small patch of Beyoğlu, which is a stomping ground for writers and artists – comparable to Paris’ Le Marais. Here, expect antique stores, coffee shops, pool bars and boutiques to line the narrow, cobbled streets. Elsewhere, Monkey Bar has a great view if you're after (admittedly overpriced) cocktails against uninterrupted views of the aforementioned Bosphorus River at sunset, while half a day spent exploring the Spice Bazaar, the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia across the river – punctuated with stops for Turkey coffee and kebab – is a must. Oh, and do check out Minoa Pera, recently crowned the world's most beautiful bookshop cafe, which sets across the way from Soho House's recent Istanbul opening.
Back to the hotel. The weather on the day we transferred from our Airbnb to Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus left a lot to be desired, but nothing could dampen the welcome received upon check-in. Truly, nothing. The hotel sits among a strip of other five star, luxury resorts, all placed with an enviable riverside location in the city’s smart neighbourhood of Kuruçeşme. MO may be in good company, but I felt very lucky to be staying where we were specicially as we ventured down the hotel's sweeping driveway, and past a stately fountain, to a marble-clad reception area.
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Upon entering the hotel, you'll be sat in a waiting area to complete the check-in process. We were served drinks, handed cold towels and promptly given the keys to our room. One of 100 at the property. I love opening the door to a new hotel room even at the worst of times, but stepping into our suite was an experience like no other. I was actually left speechless, which is a rare occurrence.
Every detail of the hotel has been meticulously thought-out by international design firm Tihany Design, to mirror not only the MO brand’s Hong Kong heritage, but the hotel's surrounding area, too. That was just as obvious in the spectacular bedrooms as it was in lobby (where I'd spotted a beautiful wooden installation inspired by the curvaceous waves of the neighbouring natural strait).
The bathroom was crafted from the finest quality Italian marble; Diptyque toiletries filled the space – I’m still working my way through my hand cream, three months later – and the bed was so inviting that I’d made my way under the covers to order room service within 20 minutes of arriving. The staff had laid out a fruit platter and a separate platter of local, sweet delicacies (the Baklava was particularly moreish), left us a bottle of Champagne and provided a wealth of information to enable us to make the most of our stay.
More noteable than all of this was the view. As with the majority of the bedrooms at Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus, thanks to the hotel’s U-shape, our bedroom had an unspoiled view of the Bosphorus. Not just pretty, but wildly entertaining, I could’ve sat on the balcony all day watching the cruise ships, sailing boats, yachts and fishing boats pass by. Particularly special at sunset, I've actually never seen such a variety of boat venture along one stretch of water at the same time in my life. Our space made me feel like royalty.
READ MORE: The best Greek Islands to visit this summer, according to our Greece-obsessed Web Director.
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Nothing was too much for the staff at Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus – another key takeaway. The room service we ordered upon check in was delicious and speedy (a great chicken Caesar salad, a dish I'm something of a self-proclaimed connoisseur of), and when we finally tore ourselves away from our positively palatial bedroom, the staff were equally happy to give us a tour of the spa and gym facilities.
That was another jaw-dropping moment, actually: seeing the gym for the first time. I believe even those who don’t enjoy working out on holiday would be blown away by the gym at the MO. With floor-to-ceiling glass walls, the fitness centre wraps around a luscious and mature courtyard: a space best-admired from atop one of the high-tech step machines, treadmills and cross-trainers.
Unlike most other hotel gyms I’ve used over the past few years, your routine will not be compromised by lack of equipment or suitable weights. Everything you could ever dream of using lives here – unsurprising, when part of a huge 3,500-square-meter wellness space – and the health and wellness programme on offer will keep you busy for days. There's a pilates studio, a yoga studio and a spin studio, a personal training offering and a plethora of stregnth and conditioning classes. And don't worry, you'll be well-refreshed throughout. There's fresh water, bananas, cold towels and coffees on-tap.
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Once I finished a (light) workout, I headed through to the indoor pool; I've perhaps never swam in a more beautiful one – heated beds lined the edge of the space, and chilled fruit water was kept topped up on my “bedside table” by the forever-attentive staff. There's a hot tub aside the heated pool, and once you've gotten your daily lengths in the bag (and engaged in a traditional Turkish hammam treatment, couples' massage or Breeze of Bosphorus regeneration package), you can enjoy the cold plunge, ice buckets and sauna and steam facilities which are hidden away inside the changing rooms. Which, by the way, make you feel like you're getting ready in the fanciest-ever dressing room of your dreams. Not a swimming pool changing room you'd otherwise rush out of.
As you can probably tell from my glowing spa review, much of my time at the Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus was spent moving from bedroom to breakfast buffet (world-class) to swimming pool. But, when we managed to be a little more adventurous, we spent our time eating in Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus’ two restaurants – Olea, an upmarket Italian with captivating Bosphorus views from morning 'til evening, and Hakkasan Istanbul, a Modern Cantonese restaurant where world-class mixology and stunning design are at the heart. In both, the food and service were exceptional, though it was once again the views that stole my heart.
Before I wrap-up, my last recommendation would be to make the most of being a little outside of the city centre, a take the 30 minute walk along the strait-side to the neighbourhood of Arnavutköy – even if just for an afternoon coffee. It's so pretty, renowned for its pastel-hued wooden Ottoman mansions and seafood restaurants, and I loved seeing a more local area of Turkey and observing the lively culture.
Overall, the Mandarin Oriental Bosphorus is a modern, design led palace of a hotel. The riverside location sets it apart from anywhere else I've ever stayed – as do the riverside dining spots – and the spa is second-to-none. I'll most certainly be back.
For more from Glamour's Senior European Commerce Editor Sophie Cockett, follow her on Instagram @sophiecockettx.
