After years of little-to-no acknowledgement, it seems like peptides are finally getting the respect they’ve been long overdue for. But what are peptides? Essentially, the building blocks for your skin, these short chains of amino acids are responsible for triggering your skin cells to produce collagen and elastin. Basically, they ensure boosted firmness and skin elasticity.
With some of the biggest brands – think: Nip + Fab, Medik8 and Kate Somerville – spotlighting the ingredient in their facial serums, best moisturisers and cleansers, it’s no surprise that searches for ‘peptides’ are up by over a third on Boots. Further, Google sees an average of 73.1k of us searching for the term each month.
Which leads us to the important questions: what are the side effects of peptides, and how can we best incorporate them into our skincare regimes? We’ve asked the skincare and dermatology experts — and they’ve shared all their knowledge.
How do peptides work?
“Peptides are short chains of amino acids that act as building blocks of proteins such as collagen, elastin and keratin,” explains Dr Ellie Bradley, No7’s Science Credentialing Manager. "These proteins form the foundations of your skin and are directly responsible for its smoothness, bounce, and elasticity.”
Save when you shop with these Sephora discount codes at checkout.
“There are 20 different naturally-occurring amino acids which can be linked together in any order by peptide bonds to give millions of different peptide combinations,” adds Daniel Isaacs, Director of Research at Medik8. “Our skin is naturally overflowing with different kinds of proteins and peptides — including some of the most important [the previously mentioned] collagen and elastin, which are both responsible for retaining the skin’s natural strength and resilience."
“In skincare, peptides are incorporated into formulations to mimic the natural peptides found in the skin in the hope that they can also work in tandem to help support the natural self-repair process and improve skin that is depleted in collagen, elastin, and fibrillin,” adds Dr Mike Bell, No7 Skincare Advisor.
What are the skincare benefits of peptides?
Alongside boosting hydration and strengthening the skin barrier, peptides play a crucial role in helping the skin to look and feel younger. “Peptides stimulate the production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that help support the skin’s structure and improve its appearance,” explains Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, Founder & Medical Director of the Adonia Medical Clinic.
“Reduced peptides in our skin are thought to contribute in part to the natural ageing process of the skin,” adds Dr Anjali Mahto, Consultant Dermatologist. “Many of the peptide products available on the market claim to work by either stimulating the synthesis of key substances like collagen or elastin, or inhibiting their breakdown.” The result? A reduction in fine lines and wrinkles, and boosted firmness and elasticity.
Save when you shop with these Cult Beauty discount codes at checkout.
Another great thing about peptides is that they’re able to properly penetrate the outer layer of the skin — fortifying the skin’s barrier so that hydration and nutrients don't escape, and pollution and bacteria can’t get in.
Dealing with sensitive skin, or a particular condition like eczema or dermatitis? “There are also anti-inflammatory peptides that can help to reduce inflammation, promote wound healing, and improve skin hydration,” Dr Ifeoma adds.
Are there any drawbacks to peptides?
Most obviously, they’re typically pretty pricey. But why? “They can be challenging to formulate in cosmetic products as they do not penetrate easily into living epidermis, they have limited chemical stability, and they can be costly to produce,” explains Dr Mahto.
“Just be aware that with every new ingredient that comes onto the market, we do not always have the answers regarding its true efficacy,” Dr Mahto adds. “The most trusted solution for tackling ageing skin is still applying sunscreen in the morning, and a retinoid product at night — both of which have plenty of evidence regarding their benefit.”
Another key thing to bear in mind about peptides is that they certainly aren’t a solution for the ageing process. In other words, don’t fall for the trap of thinking a peptide serum will give you the same results as a round of Botox. “It’s definitely important to note that peptides are not a miracle solution, and should be used in conjunction with other skincare products and lifestyle habits for optimal results,” Dr Ejikeme adds.
What skin types should use peptides?
In short — all! According to Dr Bradley, you don’t need to have a specific skincare concern to use peptides. “Peptides are a great ingredient to use to start working against damage that you are unable to see or hasn’t come up to the surface yet,” he explains. “All skin types should incorporate them into routines to help future-proof skin.”
And according to Dr Ejikeme, peptides generally pair well with most other skincare ingredients. “Especially antioxidants like vitamins C and E, hyaluronic acid for hydration, and retinoids for their anti-ageing benefits,” she adds.
Save when you shop with these LookFantastic discount codes at checkout.
How can you incorporate peptides into your skincare routine?
In terms of product format, peptide serums are likely your best bet, as they’re more lightweight and have been designed to penetrate deeply into the skin, meaning you can expect maximum absorption. Creams also work well, as well as other leave-on formats like boosters and eye creams.
It’s best to layer your skincare products from thinnest to thickest — so pop your peptide serum on after any water-based serums (e.g., hyaluronic acid), and before any moisturisers or face oils. “Apply your serum once in the morning on a cleansed face before your moisturiser and SPF, and once at night after cleansing and before using any moisturiser,” says Dr Bradley.
What are some of the most common peptides found in skincare products?
“Different types of peptides have different effects — from smoothing wrinkles and repairing function, to increasing firmness and hydration," explains Dr Bradley. “And you’ll typically find several different peptides combined in one product.”
In terms of specific types, palmitoyl peptides are widely respected for their collagen-stimulating abilities, while Argireline — also known as Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 — can help to smooth over fine lines and relax the facial muscles. Meanwhile, natural antimicrobial peptides like lysine help to kill the bacteria that cause breakouts and acne, and even out the skin tone of those suffering with eczema — while also promoting smoothness, softness, and overall skin health.
More peptide products to use
Jam-packed with 10 different types of peptides, this supercharged serum from Medik8 promises visible firmness, plumping and a reduction in wrinkles in just seven days.
A peptide-packed version of the cult fave Rhode Glazing Milk, this gel serum leaves your skin with an immediate healthy glow while quietly plumping over time in the background.
The remedy for dark circles, puffiness, eye bags and crows' feet, the Multi-Peptide Eye Serum from The Ordinary is a targeted treatment for eye ageing.
Integrating peptides into your routine doesn’t have to be expensive. The Inkey List Peptide Moisturiser gives you all the benefits – including smoothing fine lines and delivering a healthy glow – for less than £16.
For more from GLAMOUR's Beauty Editor, Elle Turner, follow her on Instagram @elleturneruk
.jpg)
