Retinol can transform your skin – here's your simple guide to finding the right one
Retinol is like the bronzer of the skincare world. Go in too heavy-handed, and it's obvious you've overdone it, but hit the sweet spot and skin positively glows.
It's a lesson I learnt the hard way a few years ago. So, if you are serious about starting your retinol journey, my best piece of advice is to start slow and prepare to possibly push through a few weeks of sensitivity and irritation as your skin acclimatises.
But don't let any of this put you off. There's a good reason retinol is both beloved by dermatologists and one of the most Googled skincare ingredients: it's a skilled multitasker.
Retinol plumps up fine lines by speeding up cell renewal and stimulating collagen production; it dusts off pigmentation and can even help with cystic acne and blemishes. So it's worth getting to grips with, which is why we've put together a straightforward guide for how best to use retinol.
Here's everything you need to know…
The best retinol products for acne and ageing
→ What is retinol?
→ What does retinol do to your skin?
→ Which retinoid is right for me?
→ When should you start using retinol?
→ Is it OK to use retinol every day?
→ How to use retinol for the first time
→ What are the side effects of retinol?
→ Can I use retinol around my eyes?
What is retinol?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A, a key vitamin in the body. “Your skin needs vitamin A to be healthy,” says Dr Yannis Alexandrides, plastic surgeon and founder of 111Skin. When used in skincare, it's the gold-standard ingredient to help renew the skin and reverse signs of ageing.
Retinol is a member of the retinoid family – different types of vitamin A that vary in strength and work slightly differently in the skin.
What does retinol do to your skin?
Retinol – like all retinoids – works by increasing cell turnover, which is just a fancy way of saying they exfoliate the skin, unclog pores and boost collagen production.
“Retinoids address a whole host of skin concerns, from acne, rough texture and dullness to minimising the appearance of pores and ageing," says cosmetic doctor Dr Ewoma Ukeleghe.
The benefits include:
- Retinol improves the look of acne - “Retinol is amazing for skin that is congested or prone to acne because it removes bacteria from pores and reduces oil production,” says Dr Alexandrides.
- Retinol smoothes acne scars - Acne scars develop as a result of injury to the skin and the body’s natural wound-healing response, which can sometimes lead to uneven texture and pink or dark spots on the skin. Retinol and retinoids speed up cell renewal and kickstart collagen production to improve the look of indentations and discolouration.
- Retinol evens skin tone and patches of pigmentation – Those dark, clover-shaped patches on your skin are excess melanin (pigment) caused by sun damage or inflammation. “We know that retinol slows down the production of melanin so it's good for pigmentation,” notes Dr Alexandrides.
- Retinol softens the look of wrinkles - Our skin changes its behaviour with age. The rate at which fresh skin cells bubble up to the surface slows down; skin struggles to hold onto moisture, and elastin and collagen – the springs and stuffing of your skin – start to break down. “Retinol is the best thing as it gives back to the skin, making it thicker and firmer," Dr Alexandrides adds.
Which retinoid is right for me?
Retinol is often used as a catch-all for any skincare product containing vitamin A when, in fact, it's only one member of the retinoid family. This powerful group of vitamin A derivatives also includes retinoic acid, retinyl esters, granactive retinol and retinal/retinaldehyde.
“Retinoids accelerate the growth of skin cells, but some molecules are more irritating than others because this acceleration causes inflammation,” Dr Alexandrides explains. It's worth familiarising yourself with the different types of vitamin A to ensure you pick the right ingredient for your skin type and concerns.
This is the strongest retinoid prescribed by dermatologists for acne, pigmentation and signs of ageing. It is about 20 times more powerful than retinol because it doesn't need to be converted by your cells to become retinoic acid – a process that makes other forms of vitamin A “less potent,” says cosmetic dermatologist Dr Sam Bunting.
“Retinoic acid goes inside skin cells and is immediately effective as it switches on retinoid receptor genes,” she adds. But its effectiveness also means it comes with side effects such as redness and peeling, which a doctor will need to manage.
Retinal delivers the same anti-ageing benefits as retinol but in a faster (up to 11 times) and less irritating way. Retinal is also the only form of vitamin A with antibacterial properties, making it perfect for oily or blemish-prone complexions.
The reason retinol is often used as a blanket term for retinoids is that it is the best-known and most commonly available, available in a variety of strengths and over-the-counter products. “It takes two steps for retinol to become converted to retinoic acid,” says Dr Bunting. “With each step you lose potency, so it's a gentler animal compared to tretinoin.”
Although less potent than prescription retinoic acid, retinol is known to boost collagen production and even out skin tone. In general, if you're using a retinol, you want to start off at between 0.1 and 0.2% strength and build up to 1% if your skin can tolerate it.
The Ordinary Retinol Serum 0.2% in Squalane
The Ordinary Retinol Serum 0.2% in Squalane
- Retinoid concentration: 0.5%.
- Form of retinol: Pure retinol.
- Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.
- Product size: 30ml.
Why we love it: Sometimes simple is better. If you're looking for pure retinol without any other additional ingredients, this is the one for you. This water-free solution contains 0.2% pure retinol. However, high-strength pure retinol can still irritate your skin, so beginners and people with sensitive skin may be better off with more gentle and hydrating options instead.
L'Oréal Paris Pure Retinol Revitalift Laser Night Serum
L'Oréal Paris Pure Retinol Revitalift Laser Night Serum
- Retinoid concentration: 0.3%.
- Form of retinol: Pure retinol.
- Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.
Why we love it: This powerful retinol serum is specially designed for mature skin to reduce the appearance of even the deepest wrinkles. Combining a high concentration of retinol with the hydrating effects of glycerin and hyaluronic acid, Revitalift is best paired with a night cream as part of your evening routine to achieve maximum effect.
La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum
La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum
- Retinoid concentration: 0.3%.
- Form of retinol: Pure retinol.
- Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.
- Product size: 30ml.
Why we love it: This night-time serum is suitable for all skin types, especially for those prone to sensitive skin. In addition to its gentle 0.3% retinol content, the serum complex also includes other ingredients, such as vitamin B3 and glycerin, to keep your skin nourished and hydrated.
Tester: Elle Turner, Glamour's Senior Beauty Editor.
A very mild retinoid, retinyl palmitate is ideal for those with sensitive skin or retinol beginners.
This is the buzzy new retinol alternative that those with reactive or sensitive skin are leaning on. Despite being 10 times more potent than pure retinol, it's more gentle because it doesn't need to be converted by our skin cells in order to work. There is little to no irritation, but granactive retinoid still tackles multiple skin concerns, including acne, pigmentation, fine lines and rough texture.
"I remember the days of prescribing tretinoin and I would see patients tortured by it,” Dr Alexandrides says. “They would get dryness, scaling and they would give up using it. Granactive retinol is less inflammatory due to the chemical composition of the molecule.”
111SKIN Black Diamond Retinol Oil
111SKIN Black Diamond Retinol Oil
- Retinoid concentration: 2.5%.
- Form of retinol: retinol and granactive retinoid blend.
- Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes if introduced gradually.
Why we love it: It may be one of the most expensive products in this line-up, however, let us assure you that it's well worth the investment. Formulated with a 2.5% retinol and granactive retinoid blend, this clever face oil will minimise signs of ageing and brighten your complexion while visibly improving skin's texture over prolonged use.
Trinny London Overnight Sensation
Trinny London Overnight Sensation
- Retinoid concentration: Not specified.
- Form of retinol: Retinal and granactive retinoid.
- Suitable for sensitive skin? Yes.
- Product size: 30ml.
Why we love it: The aptly named Overnight Sensation by Trinny works wonders by reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while you sleep. It's suitable for all skin types and even gentle enough not to cause any unwanted peeling, thanks to key ingredients such as retinal, bacillus ferment and vitamin F.
When should you start using retinol?
While there is no set time to use retinoids, most dermatologists advise introducing the ingredient into your skincare routine in your mid-twenties through one of the best retinol serums, particularly if you suffer from breakouts or pigmentation.
If you're late to the retinol party, that doesn't mean you can't get involved; all ages will see the benefits of retinol use to some degree.
Is it OK to use retinol every day?
If you're wondering whether you can use retinol every day, the answer is yes – but with a few caveats. According to Dr Alexandrides, you need to gradually add it into your skincare regime in order to avoid unwanted side effects such as redness, flaking and sore skin.
“If you've never used retinol before, start by applying it once or twice a week and then build up the frequency to a level that you're comfortable with, preferably every day or every other day,” he says, adding that consistency is key for achieving your skin goals.
You also need to be careful about mixing retinol with other active ingredients such as vitamin C as it can burn your skin. When your skin can tolerate it, you could use vitamin C by day and retinol at night.
How to use retinol for the first time:
“The general rule of thumb is to start with the lowest percentage of retinol, and then work your way up to make sure your skin becomes accustomed to it," Dr Ewoma advises. "After a while (maybe weeks or months), you'll get to a point where you can't really see a difference in your skin. The product will still be working, but now it's time to move to something stronger to see the increased benefit.”
The Medik8 Crystal Retinal and Skin Rocks Retinoid lines are good jumping-off points, as you can start with level 1 if you're new to retinoids and work your way up the ladder of products.
You can also look for words such as “encapsulated” or “time-release technology” on the packaging of your serum. These products use intelligent delivery systems to either help buffer the retinoid in a more gentle formula as it enters skin, or drip-feed the ingredient over time, to minimise irritation.
If, after a few days, the skin isn’t red or itchy, it's a green light to add retinol to your skincare routine.
Clean your skin with a gentle cleanser and pat it dry. Skip other exfoliators like AHA’s & BHA’s as retinol does the same job – doubling up can compromise the skin barrier and cause irritation.
Only use retinol at night and follow the instructions on the packaging. Generally-speaking, apply a pea-sized amount to clean, dry skin.
For optimal results, wait at least 30 minutes before applying moisturiser over the top.
If you're using retinoids, we can't stress enough the importance of wearing an SPF30 or SPF50 every day. Retinoids increase cell turnover and photosensitivity within the skin, so always use a high, broad-spectrum sunscreen the next morning.
If you're just starting out with a retinol product, you might want to get going before the height of summer so you can get to grips with how your skin reacts, as well as get into the routine of applying SPF every morning (if you don't already).
What are the side effects of retinol?
“It's very easy to overdose on retinol," adds Dr. Ewoma. "When you do that, your skin just looks like sandpaper, and it might start peeling and flaking, or feel irritated and look red. Just because a product says use it every day and every night doesn't mean that you should. Listen to what your skin can handle.”
Normally, these side effects only lasts for a couple of weeks while the skin adjusts to the ingredient but it's also worth remembering that retinoids aren't necessarily suitable for everyone.
If you suffer from rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis, it's probably best to avoid retinol since it can be too powerful on skin that needs a gentle touch – it can increase inflammation, dryness and sensitivity in already delicate complexions.
Can I use retinol around my eyes?
The short answer is yes. The skin around the eyes is thinner than elsewhere on the body so is one of the first to show signs of ageing. Retinol stimulates collagen production, which increases skin firmness and improves the look of fine lines.
It's best to use an eye cream laced with retinol to treat the area rather than your regular retinol product as it will contain other ingredients that are kinder to this area. Also only use it under the eye area not on the eyelids.
Dr Ash Soni, plastic surgeon and founder of The Soni Clinic, is a fan of eye creams that use encapsulated retinol as "this has a delayed release, preventing any irritation under the eye, as well as getting that collagen stimulation and cell turnover,” he says. He also recommends looking for soothing ingredients such as bisabolol (chamomile extract) and niacinamide in the formula to protect the skin barrier.
For more from Fiona Embleton, GLAMOUR's Associate Beauty Director, follow her on @fiembleton.
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