After a year that included my third kidney transplant after a period back on hemodialysis, a detail I never imagined I’d casually drop into a travel review, I find myself at the W Maldives. Here I experienced everything I love about exploring far-flung corners of the world, but in a way that felt entirely new.
For me, a holiday isn’t just about a change of scenery — though the sheer beauty of W Maldives certainly helps — but in the least cliche way possible, it’s about nourishing my mind, body, and soul. For my mind, it’s the rare luxury of disconnecting from London’s relentless pace, pausing, and embracing the world around me with real presence. For my body, it’s finally taking those runs I’ve been postponing, fitting in gym sessions I normally can’t, swimming freely, and indulging in the incredible food and drink on offer. For my soul, it’s about people, learning from them, sharing moments, and letting curiosity lead the way.
The W Maldives delivered all of this and more. The island hotel's relaxed, approachable service gave me the space to simply be, while its restaurants, surrounding nature and activities invited me to explore and indulge at my own pace. The resort became both a backdrop and a catalyst for every intention I had arrived with. Sharing the experience with my mum made the island’s magic feel even more personal and unique, turning every moment into something we could treasure together forever.
We arrived at the W Maldives following a 20-minute seaplane from Malé Airport. As we stepped onto the jetty, the W team were there to meet us with the warmest of welcomes, where they took our luggage and logistics off our shoulders before we could even think about them. With a cool drink in hand, a smile from the staff who were genuinely happy we were there, this was the exact moment holiday mode kicked in.
Recently refurbished, the whole resort feels like a bold experiment in joyful luxury with 77 design-led villas spilling out either onto the water or along the beach, with colour and creativity at every turn, alongside the softness of island living. The W Maldives feels like a luxury that doesn’t take itself too seriously, and my mum and I felt completely held by this notion, free to just exist, laugh, explore and the team always appeared at the exact moment we needed without ever intruding on the dream we were living in. You could also text them, quite literally, anytime.
But I’d like to talk about the wildlife, and especially the House Reef because it’s truly the island’s beating heart and was a highlight of our visit. The water is so clear it feels like a trick of the light. One morning, as we were having a stroll along the boardwalk, we saw a turtle glide past us, and even dinner comes with a side of wildlife, with tiny reef sharks and curious fish cruising by as you dine over the water. Mum and I went on a House Reef snorkelling tour one morning, where our W Maldives instructor Niall, guided us around the thriving, underwater metropolis, and while we sadly missed out on seeing the W’s longest standing turtle resident, Bob (nature is never guaranteed, of course), the flashes of neon fish weaving through and vibrant coral cities were wonderful to experience just a mere stone’s throw from where we were sleeping each night.
The manta ray excursion was also unforgettable, too, and as soon as we dipped into the ocean off the boat, we immediately realised we were surrounded. They’re massive, yet unbelievably elegant, and there were whole constellations of them turning silently below us, completely unbothered by our presence. And while mum was nervous for all the snorkelling adventures at first, as she’d not done it properly before, the W team handled everything with such patience and care that by the end, she was snorkelling with total confidence, emerging from the ocean beaming and grateful for the experience and what she had just witnessed.
Food at the W Maldives is its own playful journey, and the resort boasts five eateries suited to all palettes. FISH serves a delicious array of local seafood delicacies, while next door’s SIP, the overwater bar and perfect sunset spot, offers Nikkei cuisine and inventive cocktails. FIRE is the W’s beachside grill, the all-day dining restaurant Kitchen offers international flavours, and finally the swim up bar and lounge area at the Wet Deck offers pizza, salads and light bites.
One day at FISH, we ate a perfectly grilled catch-of-the-day paired with a fragrant curry with the same fish, because why choose when you can have both? The next day, a simple pesto linguine at Kitchen somehow and unexpectedly became the most deliciously creamy thing we’ve ever twirled around our forks. We even stepped behind the scenes and enjoyed a cooking class at FISH, learning the secrets of Maldivian spices and flavour combinations. We were expertly shown the art of two fish curries, one was fragrant and spicy, while the other was coconut-ty and refreshing, alongside a coconut-based green salad and seriously garlicky yet delicious pan-fried tuna steaks. It was a real treat to sit down and enjoy a feast we’d helped create; after all, good food always tasted even better when it has a personal touch.
But the experience that stole the entire show came on a separate speck of land just five minutes away, at the W Maldives’ private castaway island, Gaathafushi. With the help of the W Maldives team, guests can book Gaathafushi for private dinners, beach parties with loved ones, proposals, and the ultimate castaway experiences tailored to guests’ needs. When we arrived, the tide was low enough to walk far into the sea, and as it slowly curled back in, the water wrapped around our ankles like a gentle welcome. There, under the starry sky surrounded by flaming lanterns, the W Maldives chefs grilled a beach barbecue dinner we will never forget. Sunset brought canapés and stillness, as we took in our final views of the beautiful, remote surroundings white cute, little crabs scuttled across the sand. Then darkness, and suddenly, the ocean glowed with bioluminescent plankton. With stars above, stars below, and Wi-Fi for the sake of my Instagram story, this experience was both surreal and perfect.
Days at the W Maldives slip into one another effortlessly, and it is a slice of paradise that pulses with energy when you want it and quiets down when you don’t. I loved carving out time for wellness, from sunset yoga sessions that left me completely grounded, to aqua aerobics in the pool, which was both unexpectedly challenging and enormous fun, and exploring the impressively equipped gym with its range of classes, such as boxing, HIIT and mini trampolining. Equally, when I needed a slower pace after all the swimming and activities, I could sink into one of the many cocooned loungers tucked beneath the trees with a book, letting the gentle breeze and rustle of leaves carry the day along. For those who prefer to carry the energy into the night, the W’s Wet Deck has you covered, with its swim-up bar where sunny afternoons give way to vibrant evenings of cocktails, music and dancing.
This is, perhaps, what struck me most. The W Maldives is a fun and fearless island hotel, and softer than its bold colours suggest. It is as much a cocoon as a playground, a place where you can be adventurous, lazy, emotional, or playful and often all at once. It allows you to heal and delight in the same breath, to rediscover the simple joy of being fully present, which I appreciated in particular. The wildlife astonished us, the experiences are imprinted into our memories, but the true magic lies in how effortlessly the island embraced us. There is no pressure or performance at the W Maldives, just pure enjoyment, exactly how you choose to experience it.
