How to use glycerin for skin, according to dermatologists
In the skincare sphere, there are certain ingredients that always steal the spotlight (vitamin C and hyaluronic acid – we’re looking at you). While others, like glycerin, go under the radar.
A moisture magnet, glycerin is a skin superstar that, in our opinion, deserves more airtime. Incredibly hydrating, it helps skin retain moisture (just like hyaluronic acid) to deliver a plumper and smoother complexion.
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And, like hyaluronic acid, it’s also great for this time of year because it protects against the damaging effects of cold wind and dry indoor air that can starve skin of moisture. So if, like us, your skin is struggling with this new wave of cold weather, it's a good idea to give glycerin a go.
The good news is that most of us will already own a skincare product containing glycerin, as it forms the basis of most moisturisers and lotions.
Here’s everything you need to know about the hero ingredient…
What is glycerin?
“Glycerin, also known as glycerol, is a naturally occurring hydrator found in lipid (fat) form,” explains Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, CeraVe Consultant Doctor. Completely colourless and odourless, the thick liquid can be found in many of our go-to water-based skincare products – from cleansers and creams to serums and lotions.
Like hyaluronic acid, glycerin is a humectant – meaning “it’s able to take and hold moisture from the environment and draw it into the skin when applied,” says Dr Yannis Alexandrides, Founder Of 111SKIN and Head of Surgical Practice at 111 Harley St. “This works because the molecules of glycerin attract and form molecular bonds with the H2O (water) molecules.”
What are the skincare benefits of glycerin for skin?
Hailed by dermatologists as a hydrating hero, glycerin helps moisturise the skin for a plumper, healthier and more radiant complexion. “Glycerin very much acts as the natural moisturising factor of the skin,” agrees Dr Ejikeme, who adds that this ingredient has several other skin benefits, too.
"Glycerin is also an emollient," says Dr Alexandrides, “meaning it’s able to form a protective layer on the skin, retaining moisture that’s been drawn in, resulting in softer, smoother skin.”
Skincare products containing glycerin have been found to help defend against dryness caused by environmental aggressors like pollution. “These products help the skin retain moisture long after they’re applied,” adds Dr Alexandrides.
Glycerin is a skin-friendly ingredient that’s suitable for all skin types and, as Dr Alexandrides notes, can even help soothe inflammatory skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis.
Is glycerin better than hyaluronic acid?
Both humectants, glycerin and hyaluronic acid work in a similar way – by attracting and holding water. However, they’re not exactly the same. “The biggest difference between the two is molecule size,” points out Dr Ejikeme. Glycerin’s low molecular weight means it can penetrate deeper into the skin and is more easily absorbed than hyaluronic acid.
“It also has the added benefit of being better at increasing skin’s overall hydration levels, something which – over time – decreases water loss,” adds Dr Ejikeme. So, while both ingredients can help hydrate skin, glycerin works at a deeper level.
Another differentiating factor is cost. As Dr Ejikeme muses, “glycerin is less expensive than hyaluronic acid, but we rarely hear about it because hyaluronic acid is a ‘trending’ ingredient.” Hyaluronic acid is also thinner in consistency and will often be combined with other occlusive ingredients to really lock in moisture.
Can glycerin irritate skin?
While glycerin is non-irritating, there is some concern that this ingredient can exacerbate dryness when there isn’t enough humidity in the air. “When the air is very dry, humectants draw moisture from the deeper layers of the skin – leaving it more dehydrated,” explains Dr Alexandrides.
This is, thankfully, only a problem with pure glycerin (100%). Most over-the-counter skincare products containing glycerin will be formulated with concentrations of 5% or less and will be laced with other hydrating and skin-soothing ingredients, too.
How to use glycerin on the face
Available in serums, cleansers, moisturisers and more – glycerin can be found in most skincare products. Where you won’t find it is in oil-based formulations (these typically use silicones instead).
Below, we’ve rounded up our go-to glycerin-based products that will help protect your skin this winter…
In addition to skin-loving glycerin, Byoma Hydrating Serum also includes barrier-boosting ingredients like squalane and a trio of ceramides to give the skin a dewy finish.
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rhode Peptide Glazing Fluid Dewy Gel Serum
A standout glycerin-infused serum, this gel formula from rhode is quickly absorbed and immediately plumps and brightens.
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Balm B5
There’s a reason why this is a holy grail product for skincare obsessives everywhere.
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Dr.Jart+ Ceramidin Milky Lotion
A lighter version of the Ceramidin Skin Barrier Moisturising Cream, ceramides, panthenol and glycerin work together to soothe irritation and boost your skin barrier.
The Inkey List Glycerin Gentle Purifying Cleanser
Suitable for even the most sensitive skin, this cleanser is perfect for adding glycerin into the first step of your skincare routine.
The Ordinary Multi Active Delivery Essence
This is hydration in a bottle. Formulated with glycerin and propanediol for deep hydration, glycogen to help with moisture retention and sodium caproyl prolinate to support the skin barrier – while you might not be able to say any of these ingredients, you’ll definitely recognise the radiant glow they give you.
Kiehl’s Hydro-Plumping Re-Texturising Serum Concentrate
With glycerin as the second main ingredient, you can reply on this serum to plump, hydrate and smooth.
Mario Badescu Facial Spray With Aloe Herbs And Rosewater
As well as being a fragrant delight to use, this spray helps to prep skin for moisturiser or set makeup for the day ahead.
Elizabeth Arden Visible Difference Moisturiser
You can always rely on Elizabeth Arden to deliver the finest skincare solutions, and their glycerin offering is no different. As well as boosting radiance, it also protects against environmental aggressors like pollution.
Fragrance-free and non-comedogenic, this product deeply hydrates without clogging pores or exacerbating existing skin conditions.
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L’Occitane Shea Light Comforting Face Cream
So silky and nourishing, and yet not at all greasy, this cream is a cold-weather essentials.
This must-have moisturising face and body cream from CeraVe combines hydrating glycerin with barrier-boosting ceramides.
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